0.60ct pear cut diamond engagement ring with diamond shoulders
0.60 ct diaomond dimensions

0.60 ct diaomond dimensions

0.60ct pear cut diamond ring with diamond shoulders.

Diamond set shoulders can really help to accent your centre stone, if the band tapers it can have the effect of making your stone look a little bigger in comparison to the band. Having more diamond adds more sparkle two.

A 0.60ct pear cut diamond will measure approximately 6.5mm long by 4.5mm wide, but this varies and depends on the depth of the diamond. Pear cut diamonds offer excellent sparkle and shape.

0.60ct means the stone is over 1/2 a carat in diamond weight. It is only a small percentage of rough diamond crystals that are cut into a pear shape and an even smaller percentage of those reach over 1ct.

Sometimes a very large diamond crystal may be cut into smaller parts, like the famous Cullinan diamond and then if those smaller part is a suitable shape they will be cut into a pear shape diamond.


0.60ct pear cut diamond ring with diamond shoulders.jpg
 

This is a design for a 0.60ct pear cut diamond engagement ring with diamond shoulders in 18ct white gold.

If you wanted to customise your engagement ring then you could opt for engraving on the inside, for instance, your wedding date, or you could choose a different style of shank.

If you would like to find out more about pear cut diamond engagement rings or having a custom engagement ring made for you then please fill out the contact form at the bottom of the page and we will contact you.

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Pear diamond table symmetry

Pear cut diamond characteristics


A pear cut diamond has a point and a sweeping curve often referred to as the ‘head’. Like the modern round brilliant cut, a pear cut diamond has 58 facets. It's basically a round brilliant cut that's been hoisted from a point and made into the pear shape we know.

As with any diamond, the accuracy of the cut plays a big role in how the final stone looks and is worth. Accuracy and symmetry are the name of the game when you really get down to it but you dont you dont have to be an expert to make a judgement as they are listed on the diamond grading certificate.

Pear shape diamond table symmetry.jpg
Edward Fleming
Pear cut diamond engagement ring with diamond set shoulders

Once you’ve decided that you’re definitely going for a pear cut diamond engagement ring, a good choice in our opinion, then the decision about whether or not to put diamonds on the side is next.

There are several different ways in which you can add diamonds on the side of your pear cut engagement ring.  You can choose which type of cut you would like , though 99% of the time this would be round brilliant cut diamonds, how you would like them to be set and then how many of them you would like.

pear ring render.jpg



Pear cut engagement rings with yellow gold or red gold shanks are less often adorned with diamonds on the side, though if you have the budget, fancy yellow or pink diamonds make for an impressive ring.  If you like the idea of coloured gemstones as side stones then pink or yellow sapphires are also an option.

White gold and platinum are the best choices for showing off diamonds and are the best choice if you're going for a pear cut engagement ring with diamond set shoulders.

A tapered shank is one that gets thinner as it approaches the centre stone, these types of shanks make for stylish engagement rings and you can choose to have these set with diamonds.  The diamonds will get gradually smaller as the shank tapers.

Pear cut diamond engagement ring side stones.jpg

Knife-edge shanks have two sides, a bit like the top of a sand dune and these can both be set with diamonds using a grain setting diamond technique.

Straight shanks are the most versatile shank type for setting styles, you can choose channel set, grain set or claw set diamonds with a straight shank in any metal.

Once you have chosen the setting style it’s time to decide how many diamonds you would like and how far around the finger they reach.  The most practical solution is to have diamonds halfway around the band, though it is possible to have diamonds set all the way around the ring.

Pear cut diamond engagement ring design.jpg




Carbon offsetting is cheaper than you think!

Sometimes in business, and life, you just gotta fly. In 2019 we’ve taken trips to both Athens and Dubai in jewellery related business and in line with our commitment to sustainability we have offset our carbon, for both trips x 2!

We calculated the carbon burden of both trips using this handy carbon footprint calculator and then headed over to https://www.carbonfootprint.com/carbonoffset.html to do the deed.

For just over £28 we were able to offset 4.5 tons of carbon and got this beautiful personalised certificate for our troubles.

Edward Fleming jewellery carbon offset
Namibia gem hunting trip 2

Content was originally published 27/9/2016

rough green 'demantoid garnet'

This is the second part of our blog documenting my recent trip to Namibia in southern Africa.  I was there on the hunt for Green tourmalines and Garnets to use in my handmade jewellery collections and to learn more about ethical and sustainable mining practises.  If you haven’t read the first part you can click here or you can pick up the story in the second week of our trip . . . . . .

The next morning I returned to the market and was met by 3 different groups of miners all of whom had a selection of stones to show me.   They had travelled to Swakopmund from various locations in the Erongo region having heard a buyer was in town.

Although I thought I had made it clear that I was looking for Green Tourmaline or garnet something clearly got lost in translation.

English is the official language in Namibia but not necessarily everyone’s first language.  If there was one thing that impressed me about almost everyone I met here, it was their ability to speak multiple languages and switch between them at will.  One gentleman who we met twice on our trip spoke 9 languages, making this typically English visitor, speaking only English, feel very stupid.  Everyone we met spoke English, most spoke Afrikaans, a little German and a plethora of local tribal languages some of which include the clicking sounds the region’s dialects are famous for.  My pronunciation of all the non-English words I came across and attempted, was ridiculed by locals and my fellow travellers alike.

The first guys I met presented me with an array of stones, most abundant were mineral samples of aquamarine and black tourmaline.  Also in their bag was amethyst, citrine and smoky quartz.   Black tourmaline is available by the sack full and for next to nothing, its jet black and indistinguishable from any other black gem material, it is also by far the most common of tourmaline’s many colours.

The aquamarines were interesting and I am sure would have been of interest to a collector or buyer of mineral samples but none were of the quality needed to cut into gemstones, both in terms of colour and clarity.

The guys with these stones were a duo from the town of Usakos, where they had travelled from that day to come and meet me, having got the call from a contact in the market who I had met the previous day. They were obviously disappointed that I wasn’t interested in their wares, however they were keen to help when I asked if I could visit their mine.   We got out the map and they showed me where they lived, mined and sites of previous important gemstone finds in the area.  We arranged to meet the next day, for when I had arranged to hire a car, so I could give them a lift home and for a tour of the mine.

I also acquired what I thought to be the most interesting of the Aquamarines they had bought along.  With current trends and the emergence of the  so called ‘fashion fine’ jewellery sector I thought it had the potential to be cut into a large, nicely coloured, if heavily included stone for use in jewellery.  German jewellery brand Thomas Sabo has started using what they describe as ‘milky aqua’s’ in their jewellery, a move away from the mostly synthetic stones they have used previously.

Rough aquamarine from Namibia

The next batch of stones was tourmaline, mostly green and with some pink and blue stones. However again sadly none of the crystals were of sufficient quality to warrant purchasing with the intention of cutting into gemstones. Some were nicely coloured but small and almost all were heavily included or cracked. The two pictured below were the pick of the bunch.

Very small peices of rough blue and green tourmaline

The next guy had the most interesting selection of stones, a selection that I am still wondering about now. They were presented as Demantoid Garnet from an alluvial deposit in an unspecified location that he mines and keeps for a regular foreign gem buyer. They weren’t cheap, over N$1000 per gram, but if they were as advertised, demantoid garnet then they were worth every penny. The colour was top grade and they were totally clean, even with a loupe (10x magnification) I couldn’t spot any inclusions – and this made me suspicious.

Fake demantoid garnet crystals.jpg

With no formal training as a gemmologist I was acutely aware that should I be presented with synthetics or imitation stones Id have no way of proving one way or the other, so with these stones I sought the opportunity to gain a second opinion.  On an earlier visit to a gemstone shop with an on-site cutter, I had arranged that if I bought some rough I could take it there for an assessment before having it cut. So I made arrangements with the seller to meet him the next morning and visit the shop to check out the stones.

With or without the demantoids the day had been a success.  I had met some miners, seen some stones and learned about the way stones are mined, bought, sold and most importantly I had a guide willing to take me to a mine.

It was clear from speaking to the miners that the game was changing in Namibia for small scale miners.  When stones were first discovered here, they were on the surface.  You could literally walk along and pick up aquamarines, topaz, tourmalines, garnets and all varieties of quartz.  Some digging may be required but it is by no means intensive.  Where large, high quality deposits were found larger scale operations were put in place


After colonial rule, and years of well-funded foreign prospecting, surface deposits have become exhausted and although substantial deposits are thought to remain here they are below the surface and will take specialist machinery, man power and resources to excavate them.

With China’s recent slow down the price of gemstones has been falling, noticeably fewer bulk buyers of stones have been visiting.  Falling prices and higher costs are a bad mix for small miners.  Later on in our trip we were to hear the same tale and see first-hand the efforts being put in place by local government to support local miners and to add value to the material that’s found here.

 

Although pleased with the day and as pleasant as it was in both Windhoek and to a lesser extent Swakop I knew the fun would really start when we hit the road and got closer to the mines.  The next morning I had my meet with the demantoid seller, I was excited to see what came of that and get on the road.

Sadly the next day my guy didn’t show and it’s left me wondering whether I missed an opportunity or dodged a bullet.  The stones were unlike any demantoid crystals I have seen before, or since, but I hadn’t seen alluvial mined stones before and the smoother surface is consistent with stones found in alluvial deposits.

If genuine then this was the best rough material I was to see during my time in Namibia.  The guy himself was credible and was relaxed, happy to share knowledge about the mining process and about other foreign buyers and their methods.  There was the obligatory request for me to compensate him for the cost of his journey, but no hassle when I refused.  I was after all expecting to see him the next day to buy some stones.

There was one more twist in the tale before we hit the road.  I got a call from a contact I had made a couple of days previously, who had some guys he wanted me to meet.  Unlike the other people I had meet these guys had their own vehicle and a larger selection of stones, including a bag of demantoid garnets.

A packet of rough demantoid garnets from the erong region of Namibia

As you can see from the picture above the stones were considerably smaller and more the shape you would expect to see from demantoid crystals.  The colour was not top grade but there was enough clear material amongst the crystals for me to buy the package.  My intention was to cut the material into round brilliant cut stones for use in my own range of jewellery.  As we speak the stones are still with master cutters in Asia but when they return I have them earmarked for a pair of earrings. To be made in oxidised silver or black rhodium-plated white gold with green gemstones in various hues.

Demantoid garnet earrings design


Having bought this bag from them I asked about their mine and found out that they worked mostly for local gem dealer who has recently invested in his first mining operation.  I had heard this guy’s name from other miners so I was delighted when they agreed to give me his number.  This was the contact I had been looking for.  Buying direct from the guys who actually mine the stones is our aim but the gem trade is long established in Namibia and any good stones will go straight to a dealer.  Many miners will have dealers who will fly in especially if they find a special stone, so finding an established dealer is an important step.

Part 3 coming next week

Edward Flemingnamibia, gemstones
Shaped wedding band in 18ct white gold
Shaped wedding ring in white gold

We’ve just finished this shaped wedding band in 18ct white gold, set with a pear shaped blue sapphire and diamonds. This Custom made werdding band to sit next to a handmade pear shaped blue sapphire and diamond halo ring.

Hand made to order in our London workshop, this ring fits snuggly next to its engagement ring counterpart and we carefully colour matched the blue sapphires to ensure a beautiful true blue colour throughout this bridal suite.

To have a custom wedding or engagement ring made, please use the contact form at the bottom of the page. Bespoke wedding rings typically take 4-6 weeks to complete and we can use both fairmined or fairtrade gold and include a variety of gemstones.

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Diamond engagement rings before being set
diamond engagement rings being made.JPG

Here are two rings that are in the final stages of manufacture before being set. Setting the diamond is the job of the ‘setter. It often surprises people that the job of setting

The job of a diamond setter is separate to that of the diamond mounter

Diamond engagement rings before being set.JPG
Edward Fleming
Lab-created diamonds ethical credentials are vastly inflated but mined diamonds shortcomings sadly need no exaggeration.

Originally posted Augst 12, 2017

 

I’ve no strong opinions about lab-created diamonds.  My instinct is that natural stones will always have a superior allure and will maintain their value, but that lab created stones will find a place within the industry.

How this will play out over the next few years I have no idea but it seems obvious they are here to stay.

Not only here to stay but with significant financial backing, the people behind lab created stones will be looking to grab market share and the battle lines with the traditional diamond industry are being drawn.  ‘Ethics’ seems to have been identified as a battle the lab-grown diamond producers think they can win.  And with good reason.

The traditional diamond industry has a shameful record when it comes to its supply chain and although efforts were made in improve things  some of the poorest people in the world are still routinely taken advantage of by the international diamond industry with corruption and exploitation still seemingly inseparable from the trade.  The industry has resisted attempts from the outside to change the way it operates, making only superficial efforts to address the concerns of its critics and failing miserably in making significant improvements in transparency and conditions. This inaction and resistance has left a vulnerability that lab-grown diamond producers are keen to take advantage of.

The claim from the Lab-grown producers is that while ‘mined’ stones cause massive environmental damage and are sometimes mined by  people who have no choice but to live and work in vile conditions, lab-grown diamonds use less natural resources and are made by people who are paid good salaries and enjoy good and safe working conditions.   A claim made nowhere more directly than this article  on betterdiamondinitiative.org.  While it is true that lab grown diamonds use less resources and have, to date, not been involved in any controversies about working conditions, this only tells part of the story and if you think that the welfare of miners in poor countries has played any part in the creation of lab-grown diamonds, then think again.


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In the last 15 years both fairmined and fairtrade gold have appeared on the market, proving that despite the complex challenges the industry throws up, there is a way to make a genuinely traceable and ethical ‘mined’ product. The simple fact is, if the people behind lab-grown diamonds cared about these ‘people and places’ as mentioned in the ‘ethic mark’ image above,  they would have invested their millions into similar initiatives rather than developing a product that threatens to take away a living from millions of people who depend on it.  Sadly the task of making the diamond mining industry fairer for everyone involved isn’t a money maker in the same way that creating diamonds in a lab is.

‘EthicMark’ Gems claim to represent a movement to ‘protect people and places’ and are happy to cite examples of human suffering and environmental damage caused by diamond mining (all of which are true) but choose to ignore the advances made within the jewellery industry within the last few years.  The attempt is to paint a simple picture for consumers, mined diamonds = Bad. Lab Grown diamonds =Good. By failing to mention that it is possible for mined materials to have a positive impact on the lives of the people who mine them and a lesser impact on the environment ‘EthicMark’ reveal the shallowness of their claims.

If lab grown diamonds do manage to wrestle a significant market share from the existing diamond industry and prices for ‘mined’ diamonds drop as a result, its the guys in artisanal mines who rely on their meagre income to eat and ,if they are lucky,  send their children to school, who suffer the most.  What are the big employers in rural Sierra Leone after agriculture and mining? What jobs will small scale miners in the Congo walk into and how will the Namibian treasury plug the billion $ hole in their finances.  Without detailed answers to all of these questions the Lab-grown diamond industry and initiatives like ‘Ethic Mark’ are shown up to be doing nothing more than jumping on the ‘ethical’ bandwagon.  Using the suffering of people in places they will never visit, to promote their product over their competition.

‘Transition for miners to sustainable jobs and livelihoods’ is mentioned by EthicMark but details are thin on the ground.  I for one am sceptical that they have sustainable jobs lined up for a significant fraction of the workforce they seek to displace. If they do it will be a significant achievement, unemployment being a huge problem in many parts of the developing world.  Such a huge problem in-fact, that to believe a fledgling industry like Lab Grown diamonds have solved it in one fell swoop, is risible.  If they do have all these fantastic sustainable jobs for artisanal miners to transition to then why haven’t they told us before?  Why wait until you have a viable lab-created diamond product to save all of these people from a life of hardship and toil? Why not start rolling these schemes out now, surely all these people who mine diamonds will jump at the chance to swap a life of misery down a mine for one of these sustainable jobs. Wouldn’t it be an advantage to undermine the existing diamond industry by disrupting their supply, by tempting away their workforce en masse?

Sadly, it doesn’t stack up.  Unless the people behind ‘ethic mark’ can come up with far more detailed and verifiable answers to the question of finding jobs for people that artisanal mining can no longer support then I think its safe to assume there is no system in place for this.  If prices for mined diamonds drop then its the higher cost operations that offer better conditions and care more for the environment that will likely suffer first with standards and conditions dropping across the industry as a result.

So in the face of this direct challenge what is the traditional diamond industry doing?  Well predictably, not much, as groups from around the world continue to voice concerns about the governance of the industry.

Obviously the fact that their business is responsible for poverty, war and misery leaves them unmoved, otherwise these issues would have been properly addressed long ago, but this is different.  Lab grown diamond producers are openly engaging in tactics to take away business from the ‘mined diamond’ industry maybe this will stir them into action?

Like I said, I am not opposed to lab-grown diamonds, as a designer and maker, if you would like me to make some jewellery with lab-grown diamonds I will happily oblige.  What I do oppose is bullshit and the over simplification of complex matters like the ethics of the jewellery supply chain.

Edward Fleming
Shaped wedding band for a pear diamond ring
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If you’re plucking for a pear shaped diamond engagement ring, then there’s a good chance you’ll need a shaped wedding band to go with it.

There are of course things you can do to to make sure that the wedding band sits flush with the engagment.

A wedfit ring allows the wedding ring to sit flush with the engagement ring by raising the diamond up, above the level of the top of the engagement ring.

If, however, you are keen to keep the stone as low as possible, then a shaped wedding band is the way to go.

pear wed fit.jpg

If you wish to have the stone set lower, then this isnt ideal and a fitted or shaped wedding band is the answer. On the whole, these will need to be custom made and you should allow approximatly 4-6 weeks for this process.

Edward Fleming
Pear diamond settings, which is best?

Pear shape diamonds have both sweeping curves and a sharp point. The point must be protected otherise its liable to get chipped and the base of the pear must be supported.

These are the basic points to consider when deciding on how to set the pear shape diamond you have chosen for your engagment ring. As with any stones setting, there are two basic types that you’re probably familiar with, the claw setting , and the rubover setting.

Pear shape diamond claw setting

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Typically, a claw setting for a pear shape diamond will have 3 claws, the least of any diamond cut.

Does this mean its less secure? Well in some cases, yes, and that’s why you should avoid some types of claw setting.

The diagram to the left, shows a pear shape diamond set with 3 claws, the one on the left has what’s known as a V-claw, you can see why, and this type of 3 claw setting is good, very secrure and compliments the shape of the diamond.

The stone on the right is set with 3 round claws. Whilst these are fine for the two claws at the bottom of the stone, they arn’t ideal for the tip. If the stone get a sideways knock, then theres not a lot of metal stopping the stone from slipping out sideways.

Its for this reason, we only use V-claw settings in our pear shaped diamond rings.

Rubover pear diamond setting

A model of a rubover set pear shaped diamond

A model of a rubover set pear shaped diamond

A rubover setting has metal all the way around the stone. These are the most secure type of setting for all types of diamond cut and its true of pear cut diamonds too.

A common misconception is that these types of settings allow less light into the stone. While its true that you can’t see as much of the stone as you can in a claw setting, this doesnt effect the sparkle.

Diamonds don’t absorb light from underneath, they reflect light that enters through the top.

Edward Fleming